Once, There Was a Sea...

Once, There Was a Sea...

Gorgan Bay, Golestan Province, Iran/2023/Environmental Documentary

Once a vital waterway connected to the Caspian Sea, Gorgan Bay is facing a dramatic retreat of its waters. Fishing boats now lie stranded, piers stand above exposed mud and salt, and infrastructure built for a living shoreline has been left behind. Photographed across the southern and eastern shores of the bay in 2023, this series documents a landscape in transition and preserves a record of what may disappear.

Waiting by the Shore

Waiting by the Shore

Bandar-e Gaz pier, summer 2023. Unused shelters stand along a shoreline increasingly abandoned by tourists.

The Lengthening Pier

The Lengthening Pier

Bandar-e Gaz pier, summer 2023. Visitors walk along a 1,200-meter wooden pier that must extend farther each year to reach the water.

Against the Waves

Against the Waves

Chapaghli coast, summer 2023. Breakwaters that once stood against the storm waves of the Caspian ‎Sea now face a receding shoreline.‎

Stranded

Stranded

Bandar-e Torkaman coast, summer 2023. A fishing boat lies stranded far from the retreating water.‎

An Abandoned Harbor

An Abandoned Harbor

‎Bandar-e Gaz pier, summer 2023. The commercial harbor building stands beside breakwaters left ‎unused by the retreating sea.‎

The New Road to the Sea

The New Road to the Sea

Bandar-e Torkaman coast, summer 2023. A road built to carry fishing boats toward the sea now crosses ‎what was once the bed of Gorgan Bay.‎

Water Brought by Tanker

Water Brought by Tanker

Gomishan coast, summer 2023. A water tanker supplies environmental patrol units where, according ‎to local residents, the water once reached depths of more than four meters.‎

A Pier Without Boats

A Pier Without Boats

Bandar-e Gaz pier, summer 2023. The recreational boating station has been left unused as the water ‎retreats from the shore.‎

Salt and Mud

Salt and Mud

Khajeh Nafas coast, summer 2023. A stranded boat rests beside salt flats formed by the retreating ‎waters, an emerging landscape that could become a source of dust in the region.‎

Boats Without a Sea

Boats Without a Sea

Khajeh Nafas coast, summer 2023. Local fishermen's boats lie stranded along the village shore, no ‎longer able to reach the water.‎

The Stranded Fleet

The Stranded Fleet

Chapaghli coast, summer 2023. An aerial view of fishing boats stranded along the muddy, shrinking ‎shoreline.‎

A Forgotten Harbor

A Forgotten Harbor

Gomishan Wetland, summer 2023. An abandoned pier once used in the processing of Iran's prized ‎caviar now stands unused.‎

The Impassable Shore

The Impassable Shore

Nokandeh coast, summer 2023. As the water retreats, much of Gorgan Bay's shoreline has turned into ‎muddy, foul-smelling wetlands that are difficult to cross.‎

Four Meters Above Nothing

Four Meters Above Nothing

Near the Iran–Turkmenistan border, summer 2023. The coastal protection unit's pier remains standing ‎on four-meter-high supports above the dry bed of the former bay.‎

Narrative Statement

Gorgan Bay is the largest bay of the Caspian Sea, formed by the eastward expansion of the Miankaleh Peninsula along the southeastern Caspian coast. In recent years, the bay has faced increasing pressure from rising temperatures, evaporation, reduced rainfall, excessive exploitation of marine resources, and changes to the waterways that feed it. Large areas of the bay have already dried out, leaving behind an increasingly fragile landscape. For years, the bay has been affected by a combination of challenges: insufficient water for the regeneration of aquatic life, overfishing, inadequate dredging of water channels, and the expansion of water reservoirs and fish farms upstream. Together, these pressures have intensified the environmental crisis. The continued decline in the bay's water level threatens not only aquatic life and migratory birds, but also the livelihoods of communities living around its shores. In the worst-case scenario, the disappearance of the bay could transform its exposed bed into a source of dust and force surrounding communities to consider migration. The consequences are already visible in the landscape. Fishing boats have been stranded far from the water. Recreational piers have become unusable. Roads once built to transport boats toward the sea now cross what was formerly the bed of the bay. Breakwaters stand beside a retreating shoreline, while abandoned structures remain as traces of a waterfront that is disappearing. During my last visit to the shores of Gorgan Bay in the summer of 2023, my daughter, looking at the receding water, said to her five-year-old brother: “There used to be a sea here...” That sentence became the title of this work. Photographed from the shores of Nokandeh to areas near the Iran–Turkmenistan border, this documentary series records the drying of Gorgan Bay as it has become increasingly visible and distressing. The photographs are intended as a visual record—not only of an environmental crisis, but of the traces left behind as water disappears: boats without a sea, piers without boats, and a shoreline gradually becoming something else. This is what remains when the sea retreats.

— Mohammad Ataei

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